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旧 Oct 12th, 2010, 18:54     #1
China_Soul
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默认 2010 冰岛自驾游周记

被公派到北欧学习工作一段时间,周一到周五上班,决定每个周末都租车到处看看,将这个地理上远远被孤立的国家游个大概,也算不枉此行,反正可以报销

出发前到处搜一下游冰岛的中文游记,发觉可以参考的少之又少,看来到这里旅游的中国人不多。只能拿着全国地图请教这里的同事看有什么地方值得去。他们说这里popular的游览地方都在downtown附近,基本游客都会去的,看看就算了,真正冰岛的精华是雄伟的自然景色,要翻山越岭看的,还语重心长的告诫,一定要开好的越野车,带gps(注,这里有些highland的地方是一定要四驱越野车才能上去的,开轿车,就算是四驱的轿车,也是严重违法,被警察逮着了要重罚的)。

于是这个星期先去popular的地方看看,算是热热身吧,下个星期再去看好东西。

先介绍一下冰岛这个国家。这个国家是欧洲最西面的国家,首都Reykjavik是全世界最北面的首都。冰岛人的祖先是viking,就是跟丹麦,爱尔兰,挪威瑞典一带的人同祖宗。玩过帝国时代2的人都应该知道维京人那让敌人胆寒的兵种Berserk和那种大艇Longboat吧,冰岛人勇猛的祖先就是坐着这种海盗船到处侵略扩张,后来发现冰岛的。这个靠近北极圈的岛国气候温和,冬暖夏凉后点象温哥华的气候,就是风大点。冰岛这个名字其实是个大忽悠。据说先来者故意起这个名字,然后叫另外一个冰天雪地的严寒地方greenland,把后来者忽悠到那个地方自己就独占这个暖国的资源。

冰岛人性情高傲,大多数人不苟言笑,办事踏实。跟说起话来表情丰富手舞足蹈的北美人截然不同。他们语言能力很强,大街上的人基本都会英语,上了年纪的可能说不大灵光,不过都可以沟通。听说他们不少人还会挪威语和瑞典语。需要帮助人时力所能及都会尽心尽力帮妥.。

冰岛货币是krona,大概1加币对110的krona,这里买一件日常东西动辄成千上万或者几十万的krona的,到商店买东西都要数清楚几个零才换算准确到底要多少加币。我还真试过数错了,以为这里的洗发水要几十加币,其实也就是几刀罢了。经济危机的时候国家濒临破产,现在恢复了一些但是国家也是负债累累。前段时间荷兰要追债,冰岛国库空虚没银两,总统就耍了个小花招,让全民投票决定还不还,如果还冰岛平均每人每年支付二万五美金支付n年。结果投票率超高,百分之九十几的人都说,不还,靠你当冰岛人傻子啊。总统把投票结果扔给荷兰了事,算是赖帐了。于是冰岛国家的credit大损,下次恐怕没有哪个国家肯借钱了。但是要注意了,冰岛国家穷,人民不穷,经济危机之前人均生活水平都是世界数一数二的,现在栏船也有三根钉。国家差不多破产了,照样满大街人开好车住大屋。一个三倍于台湾的地方只有三十万人,每人享受的资源该有多少。

冰岛物价极高,由于全部肉食蔬果基本依靠进口,所以到超市买这些东西大概是加拿大的三四倍。到饭馆吃一顿普通午饭大概一个人三四十加币的样子。汽油价是加拿大两倍。冰岛唯一大量出口的产品是鳕鱼,由于90%以上都用来出口,所以在本地吃鳕鱼反而比在外国买的还贵。

如果你觉得加拿大的购物税高,你来冰岛看看就平衡了,25.5%! 中等收入需缴交大概40%的收入税,典型的重税高福利国家。福利到底好得怎么样还没打听清楚,不过我知道冰岛的医疗是非常棒的,冰岛是全世界政府在人均医疗上花费最多的国家。就是一个芝麻绿豆的小镇也有非常多优秀的专科医生,万一住院了,你要吃什么喝什么尽管叫护士买,免费!另外医疗、药物、检查甚至补品全部免费,生小孩的话毛巾、婴儿尿片, 婴儿衣服大人、大人内外衣裤都有也全部免费供给。这里的医生不如加拿大的富有,不过都有医德。专科医生看过的病人都会记录联系地址电话,需要时会亲自打电话询问病况,进展等。如果本国治不好的疑难病政府会送你到国外医治,飞机票和在外国所有费用政府出。夫妻双方都有是三个月产假,完了其中一方可以再申请多三个月,产假由政府出80%工资。

加拿大只有多伦多有直飞冰岛的,几个小时就到。否则就要去经美国。我就是从西雅图转机的。冰岛航空的飞机奇差。座椅简直就像公园里那种硬坐凳,坐一会就屁股疼。更不幸是我坐窗口,旁边一个肥大老黑一上来就呼呼大睡,我连站起来伸伸腰都不行。另外飞机上吃喝甚至要耳机看电影都要钱,穷成这样不服不行。
介绍了这么多,就起行吧。
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旧 Oct 12th, 2010, 18:56     #2
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默认 1. Golden circle

http://www.chinasmile.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10420/CIMG5388.JPG
一开始不知道golden circle是什么东东,其实是个大瀑布


http://www.chinasmile.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10420/CIMG5392.JPG

没有尼亚拉加大,但是可以看到从河流经过断层成瀑布最后落入峡谷的整个过程,也挺好看


http://www.chinasmile.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10420/CIMG5389.JPG

水气溅的老高

http://www.chinasmile.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10420/CIMG5406.JPG

在从另外一个角度看
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旧 Oct 12th, 2010, 19:23     #3
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默认 2.沿途风光

http://www.chinasmile.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10420/CIMG5362.JPG

冰岛地貌非常奇特,很多都是这种黑土上长满地苔的,世界其他地方应该看不到了

http://www.chinasmile.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10420/CIMG5366.JPG

远处的地方其实是大海来的,傻瓜机照不出,凑合看


http://www.chinasmile.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10420/CIMG5396.JPG
地床含硫多,都成红色的了

http://www.chinasmile.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10420/CIMG5368.JPG

冰岛的绵羊胖得象圆球

http://www.chinasmile.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10420/CIMG5370.JPG

冰岛马,天生神勇,是世界赛马爱好者的第一抢手货,以耐寒抗病、体魄强壮和步伐稳健而著称,而且天生就会一种世界其他马不会的步法,牛吧。据说他们还是世界上最纯种的马,因为自从维京人把他们带到孤岛上,千年以来不曾跟其它品种有过杂交过,他们是冰岛人的骄傲。

此帖于 Oct 12th, 2010 19:47 被 China_Soul 编辑。
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旧 Oct 12th, 2010, 19:44     #4
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默认 3. 地热喷泉

冰岛发电靠水力,地热资源非常丰富,暖水暖气都靠地热,所以电暖水成本都很低,也造就了冰岛这个纯无污染的国家。旅店一开洗澡龙头,热水排山倒海的喷出,一点都不吝啬,便宜嘛,水大洗澡就是爽啊。

这里很多大温泉,本地人叫Geysir。活跃的会喷热水出来的。

http://www.chinasmile.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10420/CIMG5413.JPG
一个一个好像盛着开水的大锅


http://www.chinasmile.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10420/normal_CIMG5415.JPG

这个爆发了

http://www.chinasmile.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10420/CIMG5416.JPG

这个是另一次爆发之前水在翻滚



最后看一次爆发的过程,为了抢拍跑得近了,喷出来时溅了我一身,上帝保佑,幸好喷发出来的不是熔岩
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旧 Oct 12th, 2010, 19:45     #5
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默认

今天到这里,明天介绍一下游客必去的大温泉blue lagoon
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旧 Oct 13th, 2010, 05:51     #6
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默认

引用:
作者: 同温层 查看帖子
占座。。。还是公费旅游好
什么公费旅游啊,是被公司派到这里工作顺便旅游,weekdays还是要勤奋工作啲
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旧 Oct 13th, 2010, 18:43     #7
China_Soul
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默认

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好。好游记。期待中...

自己没花钱就是公费旅游。
租车油费旅店公司负责,游玩的门票还是要自己掏腰包滴
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旧 Oct 13th, 2010, 18:58     #8
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默认 4. downtown街景

http://www.chinasmile.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10420/CIMG5424.JPG

我住首都raykjavik, downtown在海边,这条街道一直通到海边

http://www.chinasmile.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10420/CIMG5420.JPG

看看冰岛人都开什么车?基本你很少看到美国车的,很多是欧宝,标志这种北美少见的车种,还有日本和韩国的车都常见,大概有一半以上是越野车,最最常见的车是Range Rover,如果是美国车一般都是福特,GM,雪弗莱的到目前没见过。

http://www.chinasmile.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10420/CIMG5422.JPG

猜猜这个是什么建筑物?我等会才说。 傻瓜机照不好,照不出那种雄伟。

http://www.chinasmile.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10420/CIMG5427.JPG
到海边了,别以为这个是什么内海,其实是大名鼎鼎的大西洋,沿着海边有一条很长的人行道,很舒服

http://www.chinasmile.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10420/CIMG5425.JPG

往外面看看

http://www.chinasmile.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10420/CIMG5428.JPG

冰岛首都也是个现代化的大都市,downtown高楼林立

此帖于 Oct 13th, 2010 19:36 被 China_Soul 编辑。
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旧 Oct 13th, 2010, 19:23     #9
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默认 5. blue Lagoon

就是蓝湖的意思,是一个巨大的温泉

http://www.bluelagoon.com/resources/Images/Galleries/Blue-Lagoon---Blaa-lonid/7996cropped.jpg

一次28欧元随便泡,据说有很多功效,美容,消除肌肉疼,治疗皮肤病等。温泉中央有个小卖部,泡得口渴了可以游到中间买东西喝,不用带钱,每个进入的人都有磁腕带,扫一下出门的时候结帐。当地还出产大量的温泉土制成的美容护肤品,那种泥是白色的,泡温泉的人还多就在地下抓一把就往脸上涂。成品的有facial mud,有润肤爽什么的,反正很多人都买,据说功效显著。这里所有的旅游区都没有sales,你爱买不买,所以在这里的旅游区购物比较舒服,没什么压力

http://www.chinasmile.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10420/CIMG5442.JPG

通入温泉馆的小道

http://www.chinasmile.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10420/CIMG5439.JPG

温泉馆旁边一个小点的温泉,水清,可以看到地下那些白泥

http://www.chinasmile.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10420/CIMG5437.JPG

捉了个闲人赶紧帮忙照一张,到此一游立此为照
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旧 Oct 13th, 2010, 19:34     #10
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默认 7. 海边平原

http://www.chinasmile.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10420/CIMG5447.JPG

还是傻瓜机的错,光线从云层一缕缕射下来的场景照不出

http://www.chinasmile.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10420/CIMG5451.JPG

在平原蜿蜒延伸的公路,半天不会见车辆经过,突然有点寂寥的感觉

http://www.chinasmile.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10420/CIMG5430.JPG

一个红房子孤独的守望着大海

http://www.chinasmile.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10420/CIMG5433.JPG

另一边是广阔的平原伸向雄伟的大山脉
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旧 Oct 13th, 2010, 19:47     #11
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默认 这个周末的目标

1.米糊, 这个http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/M%C3%BDvatn

在冰岛西北部,离我住的西部大概600公里路程,多数山路,要第二天才能回来了,当晚只能自己掏腰包租旅店啦

option 2.如果山上下雪,就去这个近点的,西人岛,可以看火山,和红嘴鸟,和其他自然风过,要坐载汽车大船去

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vestmannaeyjar

option 3.冰湖, 007 《择日而亡》拍摄的地方, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jokulsarlon
也要6小时车程,不过听同事说沿途风光美不胜收,很多漂亮的瀑布。
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旧 Oct 15th, 2010, 05:35     #12
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默认

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作者: 长乘宽 查看帖子
看了照片,十年前肯定是帅哥。
这话有点明褒暗贬的味道啊,10年前俺还在读书
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旧 Oct 15th, 2010, 17:07     #13
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默认

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作者: FutureHunter 查看帖子
seating,,, and waiting for more....

does Canadian need a VISA?
到目前为止还没发现那个西方国家用加拿大护照不能直接去的
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旧 Oct 16th, 2010, 05:18     #14
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默认

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作者: YWFJ 查看帖子
楼主的鞋子不错,我喜欢!

谢谢啊,长见识,继续!
大好风光不看看我的鞋子?

借了个40D希望照片照得好点。出发去米糊咯,运气好的话还可以看极光。回来上片。
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旧 Oct 21st, 2010, 15:33     #15
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默认 冰岛介绍2

前面说了,大街上的冰岛人好像比较木呐,从不会主动跟人打招呼的,店里的售货员好像也不太笑,不过这并不等于他们冷漠,我觉得是他们的文化比较内敛。我在冰岛试过两次跟陌生人打听信息,一次捉住了一个小伙子问什么地方可以买到可以换成北美插口的转接头(注意这里用230v的,全部都是用两圆脚的插头,大概欧洲的都一样),小伙子一直把我带到电器行里而不是光指路就算。还有一次在乡村地方找地方方便,一堆房子里都挂着写有冰岛文字的牌,我没看懂到底哪个是厕所,就进小卖部问,看店的也是放下手上的活把我带到厕所。所以我觉得冰岛人还是很友善的。

一天中午吃午饭时跟当地同事说起这个周末我要去米糊。他们听到就来劲了,特别高兴。冰岛人很为自己的国家自豪。一位同事连忙打了一张米糊的地图,什么地方有什么东西看都一一标清楚。我抱怨我的傻瓜机照照片不好看,令一位同事就全动要借他的单反相机给我。我有点感激涕零了。当晚他就打电话让我到他家拿相机。好家伙,一进门全屋子都是人。他姐姐一家,老婆,妈妈,妈妈的妹妹全在,一一过来跟我握手嘘寒问暖的。这里冰岛人有一点很像东方人,就是很注重亲情。儿女结婚了,即使不跟父母住(我同事是结婚了把妈妈接过去住的),也会常常回家,起码是每个周末一起在家吃饭的。姊妹兄弟之间的关系也很亲密。这也有点地理上的原因,大家都在一个岛上,那种大家庭的观念就比较浓了。

冰岛人还有一种很有趣的东西,就是子女不跟父姓,而是用父亲的名字改变一下做姓。例如老爸叫Karl, 那么儿子就姓Karlsson,就是Karl的儿子了,女儿就姓Karlsdóttir,所以看一个人的姓就知道他是男是女了。如果你老爸叫Karl,而你又想以后儿子跟你姓,那么你就得起个名字叫Karl Karlsson. 他们很多人一家去美国都会有麻烦,都会被查根问底的,因为一家人不同性,要说服先入为主怀疑一切的美国安检确实不容易。

冰岛治安非常好,我没有见过这里的房子装fence的,婴儿车,自行车放门口无所谓(你要到在这里买一个用来锁自行车那种链锁不可能的,没人会用),汽车门很多人都会不锁。大街上常见10来岁的孩子带着小弟弟小妹妹到处玩。

冰岛所有高速都是限速90,碎石路80,没有例外。执行得非常严格,我开过110就吃了个ticket,后面说。这里红灯不能右转,即使来路没车。小的交叉路基本不用stop sign,全部用roundabout的方式。开始不惯,后来发觉这样也有合理的地方,在交叉路不依赖人的自觉性去停,谁先来就入圈,差不多时间到就可以一起入,圈里有来车就等车过了才入,90%时间是不用停可以直接入圈的,这样减少了等的时间,提高了效率。这里天气多变,而且到了岁晚会有全天天黑的现象(到了夏至又有midnight sun,我这次是看不到了),所以规定无论白天黑夜开车都要开大灯。我开始不知道,发现对面来车见到我都会闪灯很疑惑,现在想来其实是一种友善的提醒:开灯啊老大。

冰岛能吃鲸鱼肉,到目前位置我就吃过烟熏的,味道像牛肉但比牛肉嫩和多水分。找个时间去downtown吃新鲜的试试

好啦,看看我第二周去了什么地方

此帖于 Oct 21st, 2010 16:40 被 China_Soul 编辑。
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旧 Oct 21st, 2010, 15:49     #16
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默认 第二周,米糊之游

http://www.chinasmile.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10420/IMG_2190.jpg

这次租车公司给我送来了一辆Cherokee,比上次那个liberty爽多了,里面的各种控制都很合理,开起来很舒服,开长途车也不会太累,高速大概13.6公里一升油,不错。好象没有切换到两驱的选择,反正我找不到切换的键。推荐要买suv的可以考虑这个,非常好的车,开了两天很喜欢。我还试过开着他淌水过水塘,有点冒险啊,不过在冰岛很多野外景点都要off road drive的,水塘最深的地方大概半米的样子,趟过去一点事都没有。租的车随便怎么玩,保险包了,自家的车可不会这么试验了

唯一不满意的地方是门放东西的地方不合理,大点的饮料放不上去。开着这个座驾就出发到500公里最外的米糊了

此帖于 Oct 22nd, 2010 15:04 被 China_Soul 编辑。
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旧 Oct 21st, 2010, 15:56     #17
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默认

http://www.chinasmile.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10420/IMG_2196.jpg

起床完了,到了米糊已经接近黄昏,天色有点暗了
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旧 Oct 21st, 2010, 15:59     #18
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默认

http://www.chinasmile.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10420/IMG_2203.jpg

米糊镇的教堂和村屋
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旧 Oct 21st, 2010, 16:02     #19
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默认

http://www.chinasmile.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10420/IMG_2211.jpg

另外一边的风景
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旧 Oct 21st, 2010, 16:03     #20
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默认

http://www.chinasmile.net/gallery/albums/userpics/10420/IMG_2216.jpg

开始有点晚霞了,肥绵羊悠哉悠哉的散步
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