保养维修我的车是timing chain，这下省了

-5摄氏度 · Nov 3rd, 2006, 16:10

查了一下Haynes Repair Manual，我的Buick LaSabre用的是timing chain，不用换了，已经14000K了。

tnnddsn · Nov 3rd, 2006, 16:23

一旦损坏
会对发动机造成损伤，修起来-够买一台车的

jacco · Nov 3rd, 2006, 19:08

真的假的？说说道理。

-5摄氏度 · Nov 3rd, 2006, 19:41

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
买了车都会听到TIMING CHAIN或者TIMING BELT, 听起来似乎很重要, 实际上真的很重要

TIMING CHAIN或者TIMING BELT是发动机的一部分, TIMING的意思就是协调各个活塞和汽缸依次点火推动曲轴转动的时序, 如果TIMING BELT磨损了, 上面的牙齿哪怕是错了一格, 发动机RUN的都会非常不爽

TIMING BELT是橡胶皮带, 上面有牙齿, 更换的时候绝不能稀里糊涂的错位

TIMING CHAIN是金属链条, 一般不会错位, 除非断掉, 如果断掉了, 发动机里面的各个汽缸气门左手打右手, 会烂到需要拆开发动机大修

BELT通常是外置的, 不是浸在油里面润滑, 平时不需要做什么保养, 但是由于橡胶会老化和磨损, 所以到了一定时间或者跑过一定公里数就需要更换, 但是因为TIMING的重要性, 不能等到牙齿错位或者断了才换, 原厂的BELT标称是15万公里, 但是车行通常10万公里就开始不停的恐吓车主, 非原厂的BELT会便宜的不到一半价格, 但是不知道能用多少公里, 换TIMING BELT本身不是非常难, 但是拆东西很烦人, 有的发动机需要两三个小时拆出不少东西后才能更换, 人工数当然就不便宜. 一般来说冷却液水泵的寿命也是10多万公里, 而且更换水泵也是要不少时间才能拆到那个位置, 所以TIMING BELT和WATER PUMP经常会被一起更换, 我个人觉得水泵用杂牌还能接受, TIMING BELT还是要用稳妥一点的, 横竖都要付那么多人工数, 零件上贵不了多少钱的

CHAIN通常不是外置的, 是浸在ENGINE OIL里面一起润滑, 理论上一辈子不用换, 但是有一点需要注意, 就是千万要保持ENGINE OIL的干净和润滑性能, 如果ENGINE OIL很肮脏或者质量次润滑效果很不好, CHAIN会比ENGINE其他部位提前死亡

著名烂车INTREPID的2.7L超级烂发动机, 经常会听到断CHAIN打烂发动机的故事, 但是大家又没法告倒CHRYSLER, 2.7L发动机CHAIN部位的链条张力部位有塑料做的部件, 链条仓盒天生比较容易积淤软泥, 润滑不好导致链条盒温度过高 --> 塑料烂掉 --> 链条失去张力松掉脱落 --> 全部烂光光, 看到烂发动机链条盒里面的软泥, CHRYSLER就可以当作证据来证明车主的保养不符合标准

其实ENGINE OIL不一定非要用合成机油这么贵的东西, 我个人觉得只要不是过滤再生的RECYCLE油都可以, 在CANADIAN TIRE或者WALMART买的桶装油大部分都是直接提炼油, 应该就够好了, 另外可以缩短换油间隔, 比如5000公里或者4500公里就换一次, 反正用干净油对ENGINE各部位肯定只有好处没有坏处, 还有就是某些化学添加剂可以清洁和减少软泥淤积的现象

yjz · Nov 3rd, 2006, 19:59

请问Buick LeSabre 要求的正常胎压范围是多少？我的车是1994年的，谢了！

HP165 · Nov 3rd, 2006, 22:39

What's the "correct" tyre pressure?

How long is a piece of string?

Seriously though, you'll be more likely to get a sensible answer to the length of a piece of string than you will to the question of tyres pressures. Lets just say a good starting point is the pressure indicated in the owner's manual, or the sticker inside the driver's side door pillar.I say 'starting point' because on every car I've owned, I've ended up deviating from those figures for one reason or another. On my Subaru Impreza, as outlined above, I got much better gas mileage and no difference in tyre wear by increasing my pressures to 40psi. On my Honda Element, I cured the vague handling and outer-tyre-edge wear by increasing the pressures from the manufacturer-recommended 32/34psi front and rear respectively, to 37psi all round. On my Audi Coupe I cured some squirrelly braking problems by increasing the pressure at the front from 32psi to 36psi. On my really old VW Golf, I cured bad fuel economy and vague steering by increasing the pressures all-round to 33psi.

So what can you, dear reader, learn from my anecdotes? Not much really. It's pub-science. Ask ten Subaru Impreza owners what they run their tyres at and you'll get ten different answers. It depends on how they drive, what size wheels they have, what type of tyres they have, the required comfort vs. handling levels and so on and so forth. That's why I said the sticker in the door pillar is a good starting point. It's really up to you to search the internet and ask around for information specific to your car.

The Max. Pressure -10% theory.

Every tyre has a maximum inflation pressure stamped on the side somewhere. This is the maximum pressure the tyre can safely achieve under load. It is not the pressure you should inflate them to.
Having said this, I've given up using the door pillar sticker as my starting point and instead use the max.pressure-10% theory. According to the wags on many internet forums you can get the best performance by inflating them to 10% less than their recommended maximum pressure (the tyres, not the wags - they already haves inflated egos). It's a vague rule of thumb, and given that every car is different in weight and handling, it's a bit of a sledgehammer approach. But from my experience it does seem to provide a better starting point for adjusting tyre pressures. So to go back to my Subaru Impreza example, the maximum pressure on my Yokohama tyres is 44psi. 10% of that is 4.4, so 44-4.4=39.6psi which is about where I ended up. On my Element, the maximum pressure is 40psi so the 10% rule started me out at 36psi. I added one more to see what happened and it got better. Going up to 38psi and it definitely went off the boil, so for my vehicle and my driving style, 37psi on the Element was the sweet spot.

Nov 3rd, 2006, 16:10	#1
-5摄氏度 Senior Member 注册日期: Dec 2005 帖子: 180	我的车是timing chain，这下省了查了一下Haynes Repair Manual，我的Buick LaSabre用的是timing chain，不用换了，已经14000K了。
-5摄氏度 Senior Member 注册日期: Dec 2005 帖子: 180

Nov 3rd, 2006, 16:23	只看该作者 #2
tnnddsn Member 注册日期: Oct 2006 帖子: 50 声望: 0	time chain 保养不好会很麻烦一旦损坏会对发动机造成损伤，修起来-够买一台车的
tnnddsn Member 注册日期: Oct 2006 帖子: 50 声望: 0

Nov 3rd, 2006, 19:08	只看该作者 #3
jacco 帮主注册日期: Jul 2004 帖子: 1,540 声望: 307520	真的假的？说说道理。
jacco 帮主注册日期: Jul 2004 帖子: 1,540 声望: 307520	叫我帮主就行

Nov 3rd, 2006, 19:41	只看该作者 #4
-5摄氏度 Senior Member 注册日期: Dec 2005 帖子: 180 声望: 3007248	ZT:狗狗以前的帖子，够权威了吧。 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 买了车都会听到TIMING CHAIN或者TIMING BELT, 听起来似乎很重要, 实际上真的很重要 TIMING CHAIN或者TIMING BELT是发动机的一部分, TIMING的意思就是协调各个活塞和汽缸依次点火推动曲轴转动的时序, 如果TIMING BELT磨损了, 上面的牙齿哪怕是错了一格, 发动机RUN的都会非常不爽 TIMING BELT是橡胶皮带, 上面有牙齿, 更换的时候绝不能稀里糊涂的错位 TIMING CHAIN是金属链条, 一般不会错位, 除非断掉, 如果断掉了, 发动机里面的各个汽缸气门左手打右手, 会烂到需要拆开发动机大修 BELT通常是外置的, 不是浸在油里面润滑, 平时不需要做什么保养, 但是由于橡胶会老化和磨损, 所以到了一定时间或者跑过一定公里数就需要更换, 但是因为TIMING的重要性, 不能等到牙齿错位或者断了才换, 原厂的BELT标称是15万公里, 但是车行通常10万公里就开始不停的恐吓车主, 非原厂的BELT会便宜的不到一半价格, 但是不知道能用多少公里, 换TIMING BELT本身不是非常难, 但是拆东西很烦人, 有的发动机需要两三个小时拆出不少东西后才能更换, 人工数当然就不便宜. 一般来说冷却液水泵的寿命也是10多万公里, 而且更换水泵也是要不少时间才能拆到那个位置, 所以TIMING BELT和WATER PUMP经常会被一起更换, 我个人觉得水泵用杂牌还能接受, TIMING BELT还是要用稳妥一点的, 横竖都要付那么多人工数, 零件上贵不了多少钱的 CHAIN通常不是外置的, 是浸在ENGINE OIL里面一起润滑, 理论上一辈子不用换, 但是有一点需要注意, 就是千万要保持ENGINE OIL的干净和润滑性能, 如果ENGINE OIL很肮脏或者质量次润滑效果很不好, CHAIN会比ENGINE其他部位提前死亡著名烂车INTREPID的2.7L超级烂发动机, 经常会听到断CHAIN打烂发动机的故事, 但是大家又没法告倒CHRYSLER, 2.7L发动机CHAIN部位的链条张力部位有塑料做的部件, 链条仓盒天生比较容易积淤软泥, 润滑不好导致链条盒温度过高 --> 塑料烂掉 --> 链条失去张力松掉脱落 --> 全部烂光光, 看到烂发动机链条盒里面的软泥, CHRYSLER就可以当作证据来证明车主的保养不符合标准其实ENGINE OIL不一定非要用合成机油这么贵的东西, 我个人觉得只要不是过滤再生的RECYCLE油都可以, 在CANADIAN TIRE或者WALMART买的桶装油大部分都是直接提炼油, 应该就够好了, 另外可以缩短换油间隔, 比如5000公里或者4500公里就换一次, 反正用干净油对ENGINE各部位肯定只有好处没有坏处, 还有就是某些化学添加剂可以清洁和减少软泥淤积的现象
-5摄氏度 Senior Member 注册日期: Dec 2005 帖子: 180 声望: 3007248

Nov 3rd, 2006, 19:59	只看该作者 #5
yjz Junior Member 注册日期: Jul 2004 帖子: 15 声望: 0	请问Buick LeSabre 要求的正常胎压范围是多少？我的车是1994年的，谢了！
yjz Junior Member 注册日期: Jul 2004 帖子: 15 声望: 0

Nov 3rd, 2006, 22:39	只看该作者 #6
HP165 Senior Member 注册日期: Jul 2004 帖子: 3,130 积分:8 精华:3 声望: 3105546	What's the "correct" tyre pressure? How long is a piece of string? Seriously though, you'll be more likely to get a sensible answer to the length of a piece of string than you will to the question of tyres pressures. Lets just say a good starting point is the pressure indicated in the owner's manual, or the sticker inside the driver's side door pillar.I say 'starting point' because on every car I've owned, I've ended up deviating from those figures for one reason or another. On my Subaru Impreza, as outlined above, I got much better gas mileage and no difference in tyre wear by increasing my pressures to 40psi. On my Honda Element, I cured the vague handling and outer-tyre-edge wear by increasing the pressures from the manufacturer-recommended 32/34psi front and rear respectively, to 37psi all round. On my Audi Coupe I cured some squirrelly braking problems by increasing the pressure at the front from 32psi to 36psi. On my really old VW Golf, I cured bad fuel economy and vague steering by increasing the pressures all-round to 33psi. So what can you, dear reader, learn from my anecdotes? Not much really. It's pub-science. Ask ten Subaru Impreza owners what they run their tyres at and you'll get ten different answers. It depends on how they drive, what size wheels they have, what type of tyres they have, the required comfort vs. handling levels and so on and so forth. That's why I said the sticker in the door pillar is a good starting point. It's really up to you to search the internet and ask around for information specific to your car. The Max. Pressure -10% theory. Every tyre has a maximum inflation pressure stamped on the side somewhere. This is the maximum pressure the tyre can safely achieve under load. It is not the pressure you should inflate them to. Having said this, I've given up using the door pillar sticker as my starting point and instead use the max.pressure-10% theory. According to the wags on many internet forums you can get the best performance by inflating them to 10% less than their recommended maximum pressure (the tyres, not the wags - they already haves inflated egos). It's a vague rule of thumb, and given that every car is different in weight and handling, it's a bit of a sledgehammer approach. But from my experience it does seem to provide a better starting point for adjusting tyre pressures. So to go back to my Subaru Impreza example, the maximum pressure on my Yokohama tyres is 44psi. 10% of that is 4.4, so 44-4.4=39.6psi which is about where I ended up. On my Element, the maximum pressure is 40psi so the 10% rule started me out at 36psi. I added one more to see what happened and it got better. Going up to 38psi and it definitely went off the boil, so for my vehicle and my driving style, 37psi on the Element was the sweet spot.