鱼虫 【求助】天渐渐转冷了，家里养的几条大红鲤鱼该如何过冬？

[zoobunny]

Winter Care of Pond Fish

Outdoors

A portion of the pond must be a minimum of 30" deep, preferably 36"-48", to protect fish from long cold spells. But even more dangerous than cold water is the buildup of toxic gases in a pond that is completely iced over for an extended period of time. Therefore, a portion of the pond's surface should be kept open, to allow the pond to "breathe", disposing of toxic gases and adding oxygen. This may be accomplished in one of three ways:

Heater / De-Icer. We now stock several reasonably priced de-icers that are safe for use in concrete, liner or even preformed ponds. The classic version is powerful (typically 1250 watts or more) enough to keep a small pond ice-free, or to allow a "breather hole" in a larger pond, and have been tested at down to -10 o F.. They are preset to operate only when the water temperature approaches freezing to save electricity. Aquarium heaters are totally unsuitable for outdoor use; should they break due to harsh weather, live electrical wires are left lying in wet snow. In recent years, more energy efficient models of de-icers have appeared on the market. Please see Pond De-Icers for more details and our comparison guide.

Aerator. A large airstone operated by a standard aquarium air pump can also keep a small opening in the ice, at least during milder weather. Unfortunately, the precise placement of the aerator is hard to arrange and quite critical to its success: if it's placed too near the surface, it will simply freeze in place during colder weather; if it's placed too deep, it could actually chill the pond by bringing slightly warmer up from the bottom of the pond, and replacing it with the coldest water from the surface. The aerator should ideally be placed about halfway up from the deepest part of the pond and monitored frequently.

Water Pump. A water pump can also be used to provide an opening in the ice, but with the same limitations as an air pump. A submersible pump should be firmly mounted over the deepest part of the pond, far enough from the surface that it doesn't freeze solid, and far enough from the bottom that it doesn't circulate the lower layers of water. It also needs to be near enough to the surface to circulate the upper layers but not to allow pieces of ice into the intake. No filters other than possibly a coarse intake prefilter should be used (imagine cleaning a filter outdoors in February!), since any reduction in the flow rate will increase the likelihood of the pump freezing in place. Also, no fountain heads or waterfalls should be used; they create some attractive ice sculptures, but actually drain the pond in the process. Pumps should be inspected regularly; if they run dry or freeze solid, they will likely be destroyed.
Covering the pond. Covering the pond, or even a portion of it, can help protect it from extreme weather and drastically reduce the amount of electricity needed if a de-icer (heater) is used, but the cover must be raised above the surface of the pond to allow for gas exchange and an insulating layer of air. Ideally, a wooden frame would be built over the surface of the pond and covered with plywood, then insulating materials like Styrofoam, straw or even mulch. This could then be covered with a tarp or plastic sheet, to again trap in an insulating layer of air. They cover must of course be sturdy enough to withstand snow accumulation.

Feeding the Fish. The short answer to this is: Forget It, even if the fish look interested. In colder water, fishes' digestive systems are sluggish. The best option for the hobbyist is to feed easily digested foods, especially those made from wheat germ, when the pond temperature drops below 55o F.. Feeding should be stopped altogether when the pond temperature drops below 45o F.. Wheat germ foods should be again utilized in the Spring, when the water temperature is between 45o F. and 55o F., to provide an easily digested diet after the long cold winter.