May 17th, 2007, 19:27
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Member
 
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【原创】NIKON 底扫试用
器材： NIKON FM2, NIKKOR 24mm f2.8, COOLSCAN V ED, FUJI SENSIA 100 底扫精度： dimensions 5782 X 3946 resolution 4000dpi bit depth 8 （本想用bit depth 14, 但不能转换成jpg文件） |
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May 18th, 2007, 02:14
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只看该作者 #6 |
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团结紧张严肃活泼
  
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已经很不错了，在35mm底片的底扫里，V ED应该是首选之一了，完全足够一直玩下去不需要升级了。 我没记错的话，牛书记2005年的片子都是用 IV ED扫的，都可以到这个水平，V ED就更有玩头了。 http://www.photo.net/photos/Andrew%20Ren |
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May 19th, 2007, 17:54
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只看该作者 #20 | |
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团结紧张严肃活泼
注册日期: Jul 2004
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引用:
If you’re a film shooter, or if you have film images in your file that you want to work on, you need to digitize the images by scanning them in a film scanner. You can either do the scanning yourself or you can send film out to be scanned. Labs that do film scanning generally offer several levels of service. In my opinion the only option to consider is a drum scan. This is potentially the best scan possible, but as with all scans quality is partially dependent on the scanner operator. Your film is taken out of the mount, placed on a Plexiglas drum that rotates at high rpm, and is read by a microscope lens. You’ll have to remount your film when you get it back so buy some mounts ahead of time. Drum scans are fairly expensive, being around $45 per image per 100 MB of file size. A 35mm slide maxed out at 5000 dpi is roughly 100 MB for an 8-bit file (and any higher dpi is pointless as the scan is just looking at grain). Right now the Tango is, in my opinion, the best drum scanner. For the highest quality results, film should be mounted onto the drum with Kami solution. If you send film out to be scanned, make sure the scan is in the RGB or LAB color spaces but not in CMYK as you will have to convert back to RGB. CMYK is a smaller color space – it encompasses fewer colors – so you would be starting off at a disadvantage. All scanners are RGB devices anyway. If the service bureau you’re using to make scans insists on giving you a CMYK scan, go elsewhere. If you want to do your own scanning you have a choice between flatbed scanners and film scanners. FLATBED SCANNER. These are for scanning flat artwork, prints, papers, etc. They are not designed for scanning 35mm slides or negatives. Generally they have low resolution and a limited highlight-to-shadow range. If you’re going to go through all the work to optimize your images in Photoshop, then use a film scanner, not a flatbed. FILM SCANNER. As the name states, these are designed to scan film directly. Buy the best film scanner you can afford. Entry-level ones offer 8-bit color depth and a 3.0 density range (a measurement of how it handles highlights and shadows). Better ones have 12 or 14 bit depth, and 3.6 or higher density. Check out the resolution; you want 2900 dpi optical at the very minimum, and higher is better. But resolution by itself is not a reason to buy any one particular model. You should be aware that the scanner software plays a big part in how easily, and how well, a scanner can be used. Look for software that allows you to make corrections pre-scan. Any work on the image afterwards means you’re changing the data itself. My recommendation for a film scanner is any one of the current Nikon line of scanners. Always clean your film before you scan so you have less dust spotting to do later. Blow off the surface dust, and then use Pec-12 solution and Pec Pads (available through larger camera stores o4r mail order). Look at the film surface with a high-intensity light angled from the side and you will be shocked at the amount of dust on your film. If you have a choice within your scanner software, scan in the Adobe RGB or LAB color spaces. Avoid sRGB as it is the least common denominator color space. If your scanner is not a TWAIN device and you must save the scan file, save it as a TIFF file but never as a JPEG. JPEG is a lossy file format for the web and email, not for making prints. And always scan at the highest bit depth possible if you have a choice. You want to work with the most information when you open the image in Photoshop. Unless you have a good reason to do otherwise, always scan at the highest resolution possible. It’s easy to resize your image downwards, but you don’t want to be forced to go back and redo a scan in order to get a larger file. Do the scanning work only once. Memorize this statement: scan once, output many. When you have a good scan, save the file before you do any work on the image. If your scanner is a TWAIN device and the image opened in Photoshop, save in the Photoshop native .psd format; otherwise save the scan as a TIFF file. Give it a name so you can recognize it later as a scan file. I just add the word “scan” to the file name, and save in a folder named “Raw Scans.” You may delete this file later, after you’ve finished your Photoshop work, but saving it now means you have a backup in case you make a monumental mistake. ----《John Shaw's Photoshop guide》 |
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